Going Global: Guatemala

Volcan Pacaya puffs out some smoke.

Why visit Guatemala? Anyone familiar with the country's recent history of decades-long civil war might question my choice for a ten-day winter vacation. But, the widespread political violence ended in the late 1990s, thank goodness. And my interest was in Guatemala's much distant past, during the reign of the Mayan empire, between the 3^rd and 10^th centuries AD. I'd been intrigued by several Mayan sites in Mexico and Belize during past travels, and the Mayan ruins at Tikal, in Guatemala, had been calling me for years.

But before making our way to the jungles of El Peten, in northern Guatemala, to experience Tikal, my friend Dave and I explored the beautiful Spanish colonial city of Antigua, tucked between three volcanoes (one of which is active), an hour or so by bus or taxi from the Guatemala City airport. Antigua was the Spanish colonial capital between the mid-1500s and 1773, when it was destroyed by an earthquake. We wandered along cobblestone streets, relaxed in the Parque Central (gathering place for young and old, residents and tourists), and ate traditional Guatemalan food at small, family-run restaurants. We shopped at the colorful outdoor market, and visited ruins of numerous 16^th and 17^th century Spanish churches and monasteries. We learned about coffee production and traditional indigenous musical instruments and dance at La Azotea, a coffee plantation/museum just outside of the city. Antigua contains many Spanish language schools, so its residents are accustomed to foreigners from all over the world. They were the most friendly and helpful people I've ever encountered during my travels.

Getting to Tikal from Antigua is not easy, at least for the budget traveler. There is an airport near Tikal in the town of Flores, but Dave and I were watching our quetzales (Guatemalan currency), so we opted for the rather harrowing 9+-hour bus ride from Guatemala City to Flores. Flores, a town on a tiny island in Lake Peten Itza, is a lovely destination in itself. Although the causeway connecting Flores to the mainland is only about 100 meters long, and the island itself can be perambulated, at a leisurely pace along the waterfront promenade, in less than 30 minutes, Flores manages to embody a laid-back island attitude that transports visitors far from the hassles of every-day life. Hotels and restaurants lining the narrow waterfront street take full advantage of the views, including the sunsets over the lake. Happy hour specials abound, and in some establishments Happy Hour lasts all day long! 

Temple I and the North Acropolis, Gran Plaza, Tikal

We caught the 5:30 am shuttle to Tikal, in hopes of experiencing the sights and sounds of the jungle animals starting their day, as well as beating the crowds, catching the morning light on the magnificent temples and, generally, spending as much time at Tikal as possible before they closed the gates at 6 pm. The animals were not as present and active as I'd hoped – although, by the end of the day, we'd spotted quite a few species, including parakeets and toucans, a paca (large, guinea pig-like rodent), a crocodile, spider monkeys and, most amazingly, a jaguar! The crowds I expected never materialized, so Dave and I wandered the jungle paths between the spectacular ruins virtually alone (hence, our rare encounter with the jaguar!). We imagined the bustling metropolis this must have been during its heyday 15 centuries ago – a center of power and culture in the Mayan world – as we appreciated the serenity of the site during our brief visit. We gazed up at Templos I and II from the Gran Plaza. We climbed around the Acropolis del Norte and Acropolis Central (small temples and, possibly, palaces) to explore the labyrinth of rooms and gain elevated views of the Plaza and temples. We climbed to the top of Templo IV via a wooden staircase thoughtfully constructed by the Park Service (to protect the temple itself and, I assume, careless tourists who would inevitable topple down the narrow and steep steps), and marveled at the view – dense jungle canopy, punctured only by the tops of the tallest temples. It's a view that will be etched in my memory for a long time.

Guatemala definitely has its problems. Crime – mostly robbery – is still a danger in many areas. Certain roads should not be driven at night, and certain hikes are recommended for groups only, not for individuals or couples. Air pollution is an obvious issue, in Guatemala City (as we expected), but also in Antigua, where automobile traffic is surprisingly heavy and emissions controls are not in effect.

But, Guatemala is colorful and friendly. It's geographically and ecologically diverse. It's culturally rich; both the modern (Mayan and Spanish-influenced) and ancient cultures are worth exploring. And, of course, the weather – sunny, 75-90 degrees – is a welcome relief from a Maryland winter. Ten days was not enough – Guatemala merits many return visits.

Terressentials Lip Protector travels well! El Mirador, an ancient Mayan temple site overlooking Lake Peten Itza.